Ramps 1.4 Upgrade Non-MKS
I'm back and ready to roll finally. After tiring of all the continuing issues with stock hardware and setting up a rostock max v3 delta I decided to no longer procrastinate. I will update my progress with enough images that should someone else try they will have a much easier time.
I personally HIGHLY recommend this MKS kit, it's built much better than the cheapo one I have here. You don't need the LCD if you are using octoprint, don't need direct access to z-axis babystepping using the menu wheel, or onboard SD card which is contained in the LCD. If you want to be able to adjust Z height on the fly or access to a SD card slot then you will want to get the LCD. This kit gets rid of the need for an arduino board unlike mine. This guide is still valid for it, just the board is laid out a bit differently and I will be writing about it .
You will need to install the drivers for the mega board if it doesn't get detected by using this installer mediafire.com/view/7id5fi5o7nm4oho/CH341SER.zip
Ok, so now we will get into the meat of the board which is the jumpers for the drivers. For board reference first jumper is closest to the power input of the board
Once you have your jumpers setup you want to install your driver boards correctly. THIS IS EXTREMELY IMPORTANT if not you can ruin your board and drivers. DOn't just rely on the location of the potentiometer in all cases, match up the pin names on the chip board to the ramps board as well.
If you are using A4988 drivers (stock) you want it installed as shown where the potentiometer are facing towards the LCD ports
If you are using DRV8825 drivers then install as shown, notice the potentiometer are facing towards the power side
Let's move on to driver tuning, this step is pretty important. For instance, DRV8825 drivers come with a default vref (voltage) of 1.65v which is WAY too high for the stock stepper motors. You want to go ahead and get power to the board from the PSU for these steps, nothing else needs to be installed/plugged into board. Set your multimeter to DC 2 or DC 20.
Depending on the driver manufacturer clockwise or counterclockwise is to adjust down. So you will have to figure out which way for yours. However, generally clockwise is down. You want to touch the center of the potentiometer with the positive probe and negative to the negative post of the power wire plug. I'd recommend you use your multimeter to tune them down to 0.50v - 0.60v then we can move up from there. You really should use a ceramic/plastic screw driver to prevent any shorting of the driver if you slip. After your board is completely setup and your printer is working you can then tune the drivers further by adjusting the voltages again. You basically want the stepper motor to be able to move the part it is supposed to but not start skipping/stopping when it encounters mild resistance, such as your hand in the way of your hotend moving or filament being held firmly. There are other methods out you can use so I'd recommend looking that up as I tend to tune by sound of the driver.
Now onto wiring, the X Y Z is for end stops which you can use the stock cables for all this or you can use dupont for the end stops. If your board is missing the pins for the always on fan just wire it to the jumper wires.
For the mosfet to control bed you need to put these two wires to where it says in the image above
The thermistors will need cut and recrimped to dupont connectors, polarity doesn't matter
You can again use your stock wires inserted in this orientation for correct polarity, however if your motors move the opposite direction just flip it.